Saab is far from the first Lebanese designer to dress notable women. The late Elie Ward, one of Beirut’s renowned tailors and father to couturier Tony Ward created gowns and ready-to-wear pieces for women from Iraq, Saudi Arabia, France, and Mexico. And before him, haute couture in Lebanon was well established and it has gone from strength to strength over the past decades.
In order to understand the legacy of Lebanese fashion design, it requires some historical context. Lebanon is a country that was controlled over centuries by the Egyptians, Persians, Greeks, Ottomans, several Italian city states, the Syrians, and the French. As a result, these nations left bits of their culture and sartorial craftsmanship, which seeped into Lebanese villages. That know-how of sewing has been passed from one generation to the next by Lebanese women to their children and grandchildren for generations.
Women visionaries like Madame Djenny, known as the “Chanel du Liban” inspired Lebanon’s haute couture scene in the late 1920s and early 1930s. But, explains Challita, “It wasn’t until the 1960s that Lebanese couturiers gained prominence, coinciding with the country’s economic, tourism, and social revival, earning Beirut the epithet ‘Paris of the East’. This era catapulted Lebanon into the international spotlight, attracting luminaries such as Queen Soraya of Iran and Empress Farah Diba to visit esteemed designers like Joseph Harouni and embroidery master Madame Salha, who Francois Lesage of Paris’ Maison Lesage referred to as the ‘Christian Dior of the East.’ European celebrities also flocked to Lebanese couture for its opulent designs, especially renowned for its rich embroidery with an Eastern flair.”
Challita notes that Lebanese couturiers became renowned for their meticulous attention to detail and opulence. Thus, women like Lamia El Solh — known for having the world’s longest wedding dress train, designed by Madame Salha, when she married the Prince of Morocco, Moulay Abdallah in 1961 — was featured in Paris Match magazine and Germany’s Quick magazine. “Additionally, Joseph Harouni’s designs graced Empress Farah Diba’s coronation ceremony, and after his passing, his wife Samia continued the legacy by designing a dress for Jacqueline Kennedy, the First Lady of the USA, as told by his family. Harouni also dressed Queen Soraya of Iran, marking his enduring impact on the world of haute couture,” says Challita.
That rich century-plus history informs today’s Lebanese designers. “I am excited about the red carpets this year. I have been noticing celebrities and stylists being more daring and really focus on artistic pieces to tell a story,” says Chakra. Adds Saab, “I always look forward for the awards season, as it is a very special period for the film industry and for actresses who want to shine and always look their best. And it’s also a great opportunity for designers to outgrow themselves, showing their most recent work and inspirations. While the approach in gown selection has changed over the years, we still take it as a challenge every time to surpass expectations.”