Lebanon, shaped by decades of war and unrest, has mastered the art of survival. My first visit to this complex country was in 1978, three years into the civil war, six years before Theodore Ell was born. While our experiences of Lebanon span different periods, Ell’s observations and insights in his book Lebanon Days (covering the tumultuous years 2018–2021) resonate closely with my own.
At the time of my visit, I was studying Arabic in Cairo as part of a program sponsored by the Australian Department of Foreign Affairs (DFA). The DFA sought to expand its Middle Eastern expertise, especially after the surge in oil prices caused by Gulf producers following the 1973 Arab-Israeli war.
My trip was designed to deepen my knowledge of the region while immersing me in Arabic-speaking environments across Lebanon, Syria, and Jordan. Traveling on a modest budget, I used “service” taxis, shared by multiple passengers, and stayed in basic accommodations. The goal was clear: practice Arabic in everyday situations, where little to no English was spoken.
Book Review: Lebanon Days by Theodore Ell (Atlantic)
Beirut: A City Divided
Before arriving in Beirut, I studied regional books in the embassy library. The ones on Lebanon were all from before the war, and I was struck by the descriptions of Beirut’s beautiful center, especially Martyrs’ Square, which Ell references in his book. The square, lined with tall palm trees, stood as a symbol of the city’s former elegance.
When I arrived in Beirut and asked a taxi driver to take me to Martyrs’ Square, he looked at me with surprise, which I initially attributed to my formal Arabic accent. But as we reached the square, I realized the true reason: the palm trees had been cut down, their stumps shattered by high-velocity bullets. I had unknowingly arrived at the “green line” — the dividing line between east and west Beirut, where the fiercest fighting had taken place. The driver, a Muslim, was clearly uneasy about being so close to the Christian east and refused to take me there.
During the war years, I visited Beirut several times, and by the late 1990s, I worked in Lebanon for three years, when the country seemed briefly on the mend.
A Struggle for Reconstruction
Despite the end of the civil war in 1989 with the Taif Accord, Lebanon faced immense challenges. René Moawad, the first postwar president, was assassinated just 18 days into office. Prime Minister Rafiq Hariri’s personal investments in postwar reconstruction were notable, but skepticism lingered about the country’s ability to rebuild, especially regarding government corruption. A business acquaintance once dismissed Hariri’s proposal for a voluntary 10% income tax, cynically suggesting the money would end up in Swiss banks rather than being used for schools or infrastructure.
In Lebanon Days, Ell shares similar accounts, detailing his own experiences during his posting in Beirut alongside his wife, Caitlin, an Australian diplomat. His time in Lebanon covered the economic collapse triggered by the devaluation of the Lebanese pound. The Central Bank’s attempt to maintain an unrealistic fixed exchange rate led to growing deficits, artificially cheap imports, and an unsustainable economic model. By October 2019, the system broke down, leading to widespread protests across the country. People from all of Lebanon’s 18 religious sects came together, united in their frustration, and rallied in Martyrs’ Square, voicing their disillusionment with the political system. One slogan described Lebanon as “a nation of sheep, run by wolves, owned by pigs.”
The 2019 Revolution and Beyond
The revolution, or thowra, spread throughout Lebanon, only to be compounded by the global Covid-19 pandemic. But the events of 2020 would take an even darker turn. In August, the Beirut port explosion — caused by the negligent storage of ammonium nitrate — shattered the city, leaving a trail of destruction in its wake. Ell’s vivid portrayal of the blast, its aftermath, and the lack of accountability struck a chord with readers. He pointed out that the reason the dangerous material hadn’t been relocated was simply because no one had figured out how to profit from it.
Despite such devastation, Lebanon’s spirit persisted. Ell paints a picture of the country’s vibrancy, noting the Lebanese love for life. The bustling nightclubs in East Beirut continued to draw crowds even during the war, a testament to the country’s enduring joie de vivre. Yet, this resilience also took on a paradoxical form — as the economy crumbled, many Lebanese, unable to afford luxuries, would still walk through high-end shopping malls, carrying luxury brand bags as a symbol of status, even if they could no longer buy anything.
The War That Never Ended
Ell’s Lebanon Days makes an important observation early on: Lebanon’s civil war didn’t truly end; it merely became invisible. As Ell writes, “Lebanon’s religious differences refined alienation into a way of life.” One telling account in his book involves Genevieve, a Maronite Christian woman who, despite living in Lebanon, had never met a Muslim. To her, Muslims were not a natural part of the country’s fabric; instead, they were seen as something to be resisted.
This tension was further exacerbated by the power-sharing arrangements in place after the war. The 1990s saw the formation of a national unity government, which included the very sectarian leaders who had waged war. Notably, Samir Geagea, leader of the Lebanese Forces, objected to the ongoing Syrian influence in Lebanon. In 1994, he was arrested and imprisoned, while other war criminals were never prosecuted.
Conspiracy Theories and Ongoing Struggles
In his book, Ell also discusses the role of conspiracy theories in Lebanese society, particularly in relation to Israel. The constant threat of military action from Israel — often in retaliation for Hezbollah attacks — led to widespread paranoia, with people instinctively seeking shelter at the sound of sonic booms from Israeli aircraft breaking the sound barrier.
Ell concludes his narrative with a poignant farewell. By the time he and Caitlin left Lebanon, many of their friends were also preparing to leave. The few who remained were those with dual citizenship, offering them an escape route if disaster struck again.
Lebanon’s history is a patchwork of foreign invaders, internal conflicts, and ongoing challenges. Ell’s Lebanon Days captures this tumultuous past and uncertain future with remarkable precision. His prose is clear and evocative, and his exploration of Lebanon’s past and present paints a vivid picture of a country that never fails to leave a lasting impression on those who visit. While the future of Lebanon remains uncertain, the enduring resilience of its people stands as a testament to their unyielding will to survive in a land defined by paradoxes.